Put Your Makeup On, Fix Your Hair Up Pretty...

...& Meet Me Tonight In Atlantic City...
Famous lyrics courtesy of Bruce Springsteen. I will indeed be there myself this weekend (no makeup or hair fixed up, though)... for the Atlantic City F&W Festival. Tons of Food Network stars, great events, and delish eats and drinks to be had. Can't wait to post all the happenings...
Friday night I'm emcee'ing a Cheese Steak Battle with Guy Fieri (2 AC guys vs. 2 Philly guys!); Saturday I intro Guy's Bad Boy Brunch... and the rest of the time I'll be eating and drinking my way into oblivion!
Stay tuned...

Eggs-cellent Breakfast

Been goin' to the Vinoy Hotel in St. Pete ever since we bought our house in the same neighborhood. Actually got married there. Lots of good time spent at their pool and their restaurants. Food's always stellar, and their brunches are top shelf variety. This morning, we rounded up to troops to meet my folks for breakfast @ their main dining room, Marchand's, and I was treated to one of the more delicious meals I've had in a long time...

It was a Cuban riff on my favorite breakfast, Eggs Benedict. The poached egg was perfection, and it was placed lovingly atop a generous cut of mojo-infused pork belly, which was all mounted on a hunk of toasted Cuban bread. The Hollandaise had a sour cream/orange zest variation, and there was a helping of black beans mixed in for good measure. Underneath it all, some skillet fried hash browns. It was a little bit sweet to compliment the savoriness of the whole deal. I wouldn't use the word euphoric, because that would be reserved for dinners or desserts, but it was damn close, and ranks right up there with some of the finest Eggs Benedicts I've ever had.

This was creatively planned and expertly executed by the chefs and line cooks...

YUM!

Hummingbird Cake, by Chef Art Smith

Art Smith is one of those people you feel an instant connection to the moment you meet him. I had the pleasure of doing so when we worked together on a TV appearance for his cook book, "Back to the Family." He made a name for himself as Oprah's personal chef, and has a James Beard award and a stellar appearance on Top Chef: Masters to his credit, as well as successful restaurants in Chicago (Table 52) and DC (Art & Soul).

Art's generosity as a chef and humanitarian is as good as it gets. He founded the Common Threads charity (http://www.commonthreads.org/) to help educate children about healthy eating and cultural diversity through cooking and the arts. Herewith is one of his personal favorites he offers up to RICH COOKS!... thanks, Art!

This cake is one of the most requested desserts at Art Smith's Chicago restaurant, Table Fifty-Two.

Servings: Serves 12

Ingredients:
Cake:
• 3 cups all-purpose flour
• 2 cups granulated sugar
• 1 teaspoon baking soda
• 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 2 cups chopped ripe bananas
• 1 cup drained crushed pineapple
• 1 cup vegetable oil
• 2 large eggs , beaten
• 1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
• 1 cup (4 ounces) finely chopped pecans
Icing:
• 8 ounces cream cheese , at room temperature
• 1/2 cup (1 stick) butter , at room temperature
• 1 pound confectioners' sugar (about 4 1/2 cups sifted)
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Directions:

To make the cake, position racks in the center and bottom third of the oven and preheat to 350°. Lightly butter two 9" round cake pans, sprinkle evenly with flour and tap out the excess. (If you wish, butter the pans, line the bottoms with rounds of parchment paper, then flour the pans and tap out the excess.)

Sift the flour, sugar, baking soda, cinnamon and salt into a bowl. In another bowl, stir or whisk the bananas, pineapple, oil, eggs and vanilla until combined. Do not use an electric mixer. Pour into the dry mixture and fold together with a large spatula just until smooth. Do not beat. Fold in the pecans. Spread evenly into the pans.

Bake until the cake springs back when pressed in the center, 30 to 35 minutes. Transfer the cakes to wire racks and cool for 10 minutes. Invert the cakes onto the racks (remove the parchment paper now if using). Turn right side up and cool completely.

To make the icing: Using an electric mixer on high speed, beat the cream cheese and butter in a large bowl until combined. On low speed, gradually beat in the sugar, then the vanilla, to make a smooth icing.

Place 1 cake layer, upside down on a serving platter. Spread with about 2/3 cup of the icing. Top with the second layer, right side up. Spread the reaming icing over the top and sides of the cake. The cake can be prepared up to 1 day ahead and stored, uncovered in the refrigerator. Let stand at room temperature 1 hour before serving.

An English(man) in New York

There aren't many chefs as prolific as Todd English. He is seemingly everywhere, all at once. Whether you think of him as dreamy or dastardly (depending on what you read and/or believe in the tabloids), there is no denying Chef Todd's impact on American dining.

I got to meet and work with Mr. English a few years back, so it was my pleasant surprise (but really, no surprise at all, come to think of it!) to run into him at his newest endeavor, the Todd English Food Hall. Housed in the Plaza Hotel, which has of late been a culinary kiss of death to all chef-types who dare enter, Todd and his team have created a decidedly different dining experience than this Central Park South landmark has seen.On this day, Todd was shooting webisodes for the Today show's web site. I was there when it first opened, so I can't speak to the crowds it attracted or the food it produced, but I can tell you I was impressed with the layout (and my Cafe Au Lait!)...

I'd been following the progress of this Food Hall since it was first announced, and my hopes were that it would be akin to the Ferry Building in San Francisco. What it actually is, I found, is more a nod to Harrod's in London. Not a bad trade off...

This basement space has a Euro vibe all the way: part brasserie, part food court. There are 8 different food serving stations with everything from pizza to pastries; sushi to sandwiches. Sprinkled amongst them in a tasteful yet strategic way are All Things English. You can truly be a Consumer with a capital "C" here, in every sense: eating your way around the square, while filling your shopping bag with cook books, spices, etc. A true union of cooking and commerce!

I salute Todd for having the onions to open such an ambitious undertaking in such a daunting locale...and putting his name smack dab on the front door, no less!

I know I'll be back, and this time, I'll be there to take -- and taste -- the grand tour of the Food Hall... and I won't be surprised in the least to see Todd there, too...

10 Degrees of Separation...

Rounded out my Atlanta eating adventures with dinner at 10 Degrees South (http://www.10degreessouth.com/) in Buckhead. A unique spot and dining experience that gets high marks for being anything but run-of-the-mill...

This restaurant features South African decor and cuisine. Imagine a mashup of French, Scandinavian, and Mediterranean , and you can start to grasp some of the flavor profiles that show up on the menu. It is deceptively cool and chic on the inside, since the outside looks more like an office building than a restaurant. Lots of dark, warm colors, bamboo, and draperies. They must save a bundle on electricity, because most of the lighting is derived from candles and windows! Romantic? Yes. Practical? No. (this is my one curmudgeonly criticism of upscale spots like this)...

Eating with our good friends, the Deutschers (Tara gets credit for the dining selection), we shared a handful of apps with our drinks: lobster and chicken curry egg rolls, which were very tasty and served with dollops of mashed potatoes. They were long and thin; more like Mexican taquitos than egg rolls. The lobster ones came with a Russian dressing-inspired sauce -- I'm guessing it was a wink-and-a-nod to the traditional Lobster Thermidor accompaniment. The chicken version has a nicely spicy/creamy Sambal (chile based sauce) with it. This, along with Bobotie (a minced meat dish) were some of South African-inspired terms and tastes I was introduced to -- always good to keep learning! Also shared sauteed mushrooms and garlic bread. All simple preparations and presentations...

I ordered off the menu for my entree: the Swordfish special. It came with a side of yellow rice and puree of butternut squash. Its texture reminded me of baby food, but not necessarily in a bad way. It was bright and velvety, with chunks of apple for a bit of extra sweetness. The swordfish was served grilled and lightly seasoned, with a mango chutney and grilled.

We all shared a chocolate molten lava cake for dessert, which for me was a the highlight of the meal. Served with a scoop of pure vanilla ice cream, for my money, there is nothing that matches the combo of cold and warm when it comes to sweets, and we practically licked the plate clean between the 4 of us...

This meal was solid, if not spectacular, and my palate really appreciated something out of the ordinary that 10 Degrees had to offer. I now have a much better appreciation and understanding of what is often called "Rainbow Cuisine"...

Down on the Farm (Burger)

Another night, another memorable Atlanta meal. This time, it was back to Decatur to see what all the buzz was about concerning 2-month-old Farm Burger (http://www.farmburger.net/). Not too dissimilar from my previous night's meal, inasmuch as the mission statement of this place also focuses its emphasis squarely on the side of local farms and sustainable ingredients. In other words, this is not yo momma's burger joint...

Farm Burger justifies the positive press, and it's not just for the positive vibe it puts out, although that vibe is tangibile. To wit, I quote from a poster on their wall:

Farm Burger wants you to think about your burger - what it is and where it's from. Our burgers are made from 100% grassfed beef that is dry-aged for two weeks and ground daily. Our cows are raised on the sweet grasses of the southeast, and never fed antibiotics, hormones, or grain. Our menu is seasonal and sourced from local farms. Our space is convivial and comfortable - because eating is a celebration to be shared. Our food makes ethical eating easy.

To put it in more digestible terms, grassfed cows are happier cows, healthier cows, and tastier cows... sounds good to me!

The first thing I noticed when I walked in, apart from the throng that had already congregated in and around the place, was the Big Black Board. So many options, all tantalizingly tempting, spelled out in a made-to-order process. I suppose the goal is to expedite the ordering, but for me, it nearly short-circuited my hunger synapses. Do I go with a custom-made creation or order a Blackboard Burger? Gruyere or Sweetgrass Asher Blue? Decisions, decisions. Then, I spotted a burger description out of the corner of my eye: the No. 6! It called to me. I answered (on the first ring). A burger with house cured bacon, atop a sunny-side-up egg, with melted pepperjack cheese and salsa verde as the topper. Sweet potato fries on the side. This was like breakfast, lunch and dinner in my mouth all at once. What a combination! An (almost) literal melting pot of flavors. A union of taste where the whole is greater than the sum of its parts. At times like this, I am inspired to near-Shakespearian bliss... Oh, how the bright yellow yolk escaped down the sides once I pressed the bun top ever so delicately on top of this creation! How the thick cut bacon was at once crunchy and chewy! How the pepperjack was melted, spicy perfection, somehow accomplishing the near-impossible, yet noble duty of keeping all the singular ingredients in place! And lastly, how the salsa verde was the final flavor profile to hit my taste buds, providing a last bit of bright, fresh taste! It was ecstasy on a bun...

It dawned on me then, after my initial frustration with not being able to taste each and every variation of Farm Burger available right then and there, full stomach be damned: that is what return trips are for. It is the journey, not the destination.

Although in this case, it's a little bit of both...

The Wonders of Woodfire Grill

At the risk of hyperbole, my meal last night at Woodfire Grill (http://www.woodfiregrill.com/) stands
as one of the best overall experiences I've ever had at a restaurant. As evidence, I literally dreamed about the food last night, waking up in the middle of the night at the prospect of writing this blog entry! Last time I remember feeling so fulfilled (not full; fulfilled!) was last year, after the tasting menu at Scott Conant's Scarpetta in NYC. Woodfire is Kevin Gillespie's Atlanta hotspot (he of Top Chef Season 6 fame), and if you even casually watched that season and appreciated Kevin's talents, you will know he stays true to himself and his food philosophy on TV and in real life. Woodfire focuses on local, sustainable and organic ingredients. And it shows...

The resto itself is beautiful and welcoming, with lots of natural light to showcase the dark wood that surrounds the interior. Unique lighting fixtures offset the stark, white tablecloths. It's an intimate feel despite the relatively open main dining room and high ceilings. Lots of nooks and crannies to cozy into. Lucky for me, I was with a party of six, and our cousins, Matt & Leigh Anne, have a connection to the owner, so that got us a primo rezzie (7:15) and an even more impressive private room nestled in the back corner...

Started off @ the bar where bartender (or is it mixologist?!) Blake recommended the Left Hand Milk Stout. Blake was a sign of things to come: knowledgeable, friendly, helpful. And as it turns out, spot on with his pick. This Colorado beer "accidentally" mixes in milk sugar to it's stout recipe, the result a dark, yet surprisingly well-balanced taste. They liken it to putting "cream in your coffee." Served in a cold glass on a hot summer night, it was a revelation that a stout can be so refreshing... Check 'em out on their own blog @ http://www.lefthandbrewing.blogspot.com/ ...

Tucked away from a bustling Wednesday night crowd, our waitress Jo Jo was, like Blake at the bar, super-attentive and aiming to please. I scanned their impressive wine list, and had to decide between the $38 Van Duzer Pinot Noir and the $51 Maysara (both from Willamette Valley, OR). She had an instant new fan in me when she promoted the Van Duzer. I could've easily been swayed to the more expensive bottle (which we ultimately ordered second anyway!), but her recommendation showed to me that Jo Jo was an advocate as well as a waitress!So now (deep breath), onto the meal... In true fine dining form, the menu is fairly spartan -- because it changes frequently due to the availability of local, fresh ingredients -- and spilt into three courses. Suffice it to say, every item sounded incredible, so it took us all a while to decide. Although the tasting menu was tempting, we ordered off the menu. Here's my lineup:

1st: Oven Roasted Poblano Pepper with Sheeps Milk Ricotta, Summer Veggie Saute, & Sweet Corn Sauce. So many layers of flavor and texture in this small plate. The spice of the firm pepper, the smooth creaminess of the cheese, the slight crunch of the fresh veggies, even the colors on the plate worked beautifully...

2nd: Wood Grilled Berkshire Pork Belly. Kevin is masterful in a lot of ways, but especially so when it comes to the wonders of The Pig! This pork belly (its texture approached that of a firm foie gras) was so succulent, and served with little neck clams, pickled ramp aioli, and chives. It was artfully displayed on the plate, and the chefs showed restraint in letting the pork belly shine as the star, because the other flavors that complimented it could have been a distraction otherwise. A small smear of aioli here, a dusting of crunchy chives there. It all came together in spades...

Main: Almost everyone else at the table ordered the Pork Loin, but I went with the Wood Grilled Painted Hills Ribeye (my decision colored by the fact that I had the pork belly prior). Of course, pork was never too far away, as the fingerling potatoes were roasted in pork fat (a man after my own heart, this Gillespie!). The steak was perfectly cooked, and I got the distinct impression that the percentage of fat on the cut of steak was left there on purpose. It was served with a roasted pepper chimichurri, but, believe it or not, the most memorable thing on the plate was also the simplest: a solitary charred heirloom tomato that practically melted when I pierced it with my fork and knife. The epitome of this place's culinary value system. It was all unanimously delicious -- including the Butterbean and Carolina Gold Rice Risotto that was at our table, as well...

Still swooning over our meals, everyone ordered dessert, and it was a delicious ending to our meal. I thoroughly enjoyed my Mint Ice Cream Sandwich, with it's chocolate cookie enclosing the ice cream, and chocolate meringue on top, along with a helping of homemade strawberry jam as an extra note. In keeping with the rest of the food served, there were layers of flavor and texture that kept everything in balance...

As a closing aside, I ran into Executive Sous Chef EJ Hodgkinson on our way out. I thanked him for putting out such terrific food, and, as he casually mentioned, he started here right when former chef Michael Tuohy was lighting out for Sacramento to return to his NoCal roots. This is the same Michael Tuohy who's Grange Restaurant I thoroughly enjoyed a couple of weeks back in Sacramento (and blogged about on 6/23)! Turns out Hodgkinson is blazing a similar path as Tuohy, coming to Atlanta to establish and solidify his reputation and skills, and then... who knows...? Best of luck to EJ; I will definitely keep an eye out for him and the most assuredly good things to come...

That said, my recent restaurant raves have come full circle!!

Woodfire is a place I will not soon forget, and plan on returning to as often as I can. It surpassed any expectations I could have had, and is a shining example of the ambitious, yet simple style a restaurant and it's chefs can succeed with by sticking to the basics and infusing their personal creativity and style...

Breakfast in Chattanooga

Been commuting back and forth from ATL recently, where we spend a good portion of July every year, and we decided to take a side trip with the kids to Chattanooga. We did the whole shebang: stayed in a train car at the Chattanooga Choo Choo hotel, visited Rock City & Ruby Falls @ Lookout Mountain... but for this blog's purposes, I recount our breakfast visit to Aretha Frankenstein's (http://www.arethas.com/), which I had not heard of, and only discovered by typing "breakfast Chattanooga" into my Blackberry Google search bar... turns out Rachael Ray had visited before me (scooped again!) and featured it on her show a while back... but, I digress...

The scene at this converted Victorian style house just off the beaten path of downtown Chatts is definitely hipster: tatts and piercings are the norm. I really dug the alt-rock music choices that played from the iTunes selection, and the mix of pop culture (music, movies) paraphernalia and neon, barroom beer lights added to the coolness factor. A couple of Halloween masks strategically placed gave credence to the place's sir name, too. Only problem was, this tragically hip attitude fell on the bad side when it came to service. My wife's Beglian waffle, while deliciously crispy on the outside, fluffy on the inside, took forever and a day to arrive (we'd all finished our meals before it came out), and the waiter made no attempt whatsoever to apologize for the delay nor explain it. The cook came out and I tried to engage him with a compliment, only to be rebuffed, like he had no time to waste talking to patrons -- he musta had an appointment to get his nose ring de-boogered...

Now, let's be clear, I make it a point to keep my restaurant blogging decidedly on the positive side: Golden Rule applies here. So I will leave it at that. Onto the food... the saving grace, if you will. The pancakes I enjoyed here were among the BEST, if not top of the charts. They use cornmeal batter and must griddle them with either a spring form or in a pie pan, because one single, solitary pancake has the thickness of 2 or 3 run of the mill ones. The blueberries were abundant, fresh, and whole. Eating this pancake tricked my taste buds into believing I was simultaneously eating super-moist cornbread and blueberry pie at the same time!

If you want to attempt to recreate this in your home, visit http://www.frankensteinmills.com/ to purchase this insanely good mix (and enjoy the cute commercial)...

Another major revelation at Aretha's was the quality of their sky-high, double-decker biscuits, which are served with a sprinkling of granulated sugar on the top AND bottom . The highest praise I can bestow on these is that they rival my all-time fave biscuits from the Flying Biscuit, which I've blogged about on this site before (http://www.flyingbiscuit.com/)...

While my wife may not agree, I would definitely make a return trip to this quirky, funky place, if for no other reason than to indulge in their pancakes one more time. Maybe around Halloween-time, when the patrons may spook you as much as the wait staff...

Another reason why NYC can't be touched....

The Fatty Crab (http://www.fattycrab.com/) is a quintessential NY restaurant. Equal parts Attitude. Ambiance. And the food. Oh, the food.......

What started as a small, nondescript little joint in the West Village has become a cult and popular fave among anyone who's ever tasted their unique, no-frills take on Asian BBQ. To be more precise, it MALaysian cuisine, but it's the kind you can imagine you'd find if you travelled to Malaysia and stumbled into a place a friend of a friend of a your tour guide knew about, but didn't really want anyone to find out about for fear of it becoming too crowded.

I met my longtime running mate Darren at their newer, UWS spot, and we ate at the bar. The vibe is gritty and laid back, and I must give props to the varied old school tunes that were played at just the right volume so as to add to the aura, not distract from it. The "crew" is no-nonsense, but friendly and accommodating at the same time.

I wanted to go with some menu mainstays, so we started with the Pork Buns. They come out with a silver dollar pancake-size bun folded around a juicy, succulent slab of pork. On the side is a dressed salad with some sliced, cooked egg, and a soup spoon filled with a semi-thick, sweet and salty sauce. As is customary and encouraged, diners at Fatty Crab should embrace the mash-up, and we did. Mixing it all together was the foreplay...tasting it was... well, you get the idea... what a starter! Could the rest of the meal live up??

Simply put, it did -- D and I shared the Fatty Duck (steamed and fried, on a bed of sticky rice, called tamaki) that would convert even the most ardent anti-duck eaters. Again, eating with our hands was part of the visceral experience, but the flavors were so rich and layered, and the texture of the fat and the meat itself so intense that you really couldn't imagine eating it any other way. Also had the Singaporean Black Pepper Mussels, where the only minor complaint was not having any bread to soak up the incredible both with. Finally, the Short Rib Rendang, braised with kaffir lime, coconut shavings and chili spices. Served in a pile atop more sticky rice, it was a cinch to pull apart and just as easily melted in your mouth. The key, as I've learned, is using the coconut milk as your braising liquid. Just sensational.

Another badass bastion of exceptional eating in NYC...

Shack-in' Up in NYC

Cross another NYC food pilgrimage off my list: finally made my way to the venerable Shake Shack today. Woo Hoo

(http://www.shakeshack.com/)!!

This jewel of the Danny Meyer empire has as large and loyal a following as any burger joint you'll find. It's reach is ever expanding (new spots opening in the city as well as Miami), but the flagship in the leafy confines of Madison Square Park was where it all started... and where I was headed.

Unfortunately (I think) for me, the UWS annex is the only spot serving the bacon-peanut butter burger, so I opted for the 'Shroom Burger. I know, I know, going from one extreme of gluttony to the opposite end of the spectrum, right? I mean, no Angus beef to be found on my burger... what was I thinking?!? What I was thinking was I wanted the most creative burger experience this modern day "roadside" burger stand could offer, and the 'Shroom was it. Of course, any burger here is not without it sinful specialties! The Shake Shack version of a vegan burger features a crisp fried Portobello with a heaping, melty gob of muenster and cheddar oozing from all sides, with lettuce, tomato, and Shack Sauce (a Thousand Island-esque riff) as the topper.

It lived up to my hopes, although admittedly, I never dreamed my maiden Shack Shack voyage would result in a vegetarian mock-up. To comfort my comfort food cravings, I gave in to the temptation of a peanut butter shake (hand spun) to go with my lunch. Goooo-oood!

Gotta tell ya, it's worth visiting this spot just to see the menu board up close and personal. It's SO NYC! Beer and wine selections, along with frozen custard, and a Shack exclusive, Concretes. Love the name; love the concept even more: dense frozen custard blended at high speed with a choice of mixings. This is the cooler, hipper cousin of the DQ blizzard.

Turned out to be a fantastically tasty way to spend part of a blistering (100+ degrees!!) afternoon in the city...

IMG00252.jpg

My first pilgrimage to the Shake Shack!
Details to follow...

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