Paper Menus & Chalk Boards, Part III: Serenbe

Tucked away in the bucolic Chattahoochee Hills, but just a par-5 away from the bustle of the nation's busiest airport, Serenbe is an oasis southwest of Atlanta created from one couple's desire to restore an old country farmhouse as a getaway for their young family of five.  It just so happens, that young couple was Steve & Marie Nygren, no ordinary pair of Atlantans.

Steve is the former head of a major restaurant group, and Marie is the progeny of one of the bastions of the Atlanta food scene.  Her mom is Margaret Lupo, famous for the enduring Mary Mac's Tea Room .  They bought that dilapidated farmhouse and the acreage around it in 1991... and through equal parts inspiration and perspiration, the seeds of an idea began to grow.  Their home transformed into a B&B, and, using the trend of New Urbanism, combined with a passion for the arts and culture, the Nygrens teamed with experts in the field with a shared vision focusing on land preservation, and a planned walking community was born...

Happily, with the Nygrens collective culinary background, food is a centerpiece of the Inn at Serenbe, and the connected community as a whole.  Befitting the name of this collection of blog posts, the Farmhouse (once the Nygrens home; now, the restaurant) continually generates new menus (yes, printed on paper!), based on Marie's seasonal findings.  Appropriately, there is a chalk board that welcomes you when you enter the main dining room.  Being there on a Thursday night is especially rewarding, because that is when Marie delivers her weekly inspirations, and the buzz and whir of creativity in the kitchen begins anew, featuring balanced dishes based on the organic bounty offered by the farm and its surroundings.

On this night's prix fixe tableau, I started with a Blueberry Lemonade cocktail (blueberry vodka, blueberry schnapps, muddled blueberries, lemonade) that was super fun and refreshing, the berries so ripe and plump it became a personal challenge (and quite a tease) to release them from their ice cube entrapment into my mouth.  My meal was a 3-course symphony of Southern heart and soul.  Chilled Serenbe Farm Cucumber Soup with Mint came straight from the farm outside my window.  Cool and peppery, with the crunch of bright green cukes, and the mellow finish of fresh mint.  Next, the entree.  Baked Chicken with Farmhouse Red Pepper Jelly & Goat Cheese, Serenbe Farm Roasted Garlic Potatoes, & Hennessey Farm Italian Green Beans.  The chicken was moist inside, glistening outside.  The combo of creamy, smooth cheese, and slightly spicy jelly was a perfect pairing of flavor and texture.  And, as you'd imagine, the two sides were vintage South compliments.  Paired with a bottle of New Zealand Sauv Blanc (Matua Valley), the entire meal flowed effortlessly, fulfilling without being heavy.  My wife and I shared the two dessert selections:  Georgia Peach & Boe's Blueberry Pie with Vanilla Ice Cream & Wildflower Honey, and a Dark Chocolate Brownie with Vanilla Bean Ice Cream.  They were equally sinful, but in the obviously disparate ways.  Still, both were happy endings, the homemade aspects shining through, especially the fruit pie creation, which Marie informed us was brand new, taking a cue from classic Southern fried pies, this one being baked, so its half-moon crust was extra moist and flaky.  Judges ruling:  Success!...

Our other two meals took place "in town," just a 1 mile stroll from the Inn.  Lunch at Blue Eyed Daisy was quaint and tasty.  I had a simple turkey, bacon, & avocado wrap, with fresh sprouts and chipotle mayo.  This bakery and cafe is the heart of Serenbe community, serving breakfast and lunch, pastries and salads, cupcakes and cookies.  I was duly impressed with the sheer volume of varied items you could order from such a small space.  And the fun part of being here is that you run into the same familiar faces, lending to the communal feel.

Lunch on our departing day was at the other main restaurant in the area, The Hil.  The name is a double entandre, named eponymously for Chef/Owner Hilary White and for the fact that it sits perched on "the Hill" on Selborne Lane.  It is such an inviting space, with warmth and muted colors, and ample windows to survey the surrounding beauty outside.  I had the lunch special, a crispy, fried eggplant "sandwich," with the eggplant serving as the bread, framing mozzarella cheese, tomatoes, and balsamic dressing.  Chef White is an accomplished technician, with an impressive background from New York City and Atlanta, but it's her creativity, dedication to adhering to what's local, and Southern sensibilities that informs her food.

In fact, this is what makes all of Serenbe special.  The food, the people, the buidlings.  There's a tangible sense that something bigger than you is going on here, something you are drawn to, something you want to be a part of.

Sign me up for next summer, kids and all this time.  I have a feeling Serenbe will be part of my life for a long time to come...

On Parchment & Chalk Boards: The "Slo-cal South" Food Scene, Part One

What I Learned (So Far) On My Summer Vacation:  if a restaurant has a chalk board on the wall for specials, and disposable paper menus on the tables... you're in the right place for a quality, if not  memorable, meal.  If I may be so bold to coin a hybrid phrase, what I've experienced is the parallel paths of Slow Food and Locavore-ism.  Hence, "Slo-cal" Food...  

I planned a Summer Food-A-Palooza for my extended stay in the Atlanta area.  Exhaustively compiled an extensive list of spots to choose from, ranging from A (Abbatoir) to Z (Zuma Sushi), with all culinary fetishes in between.  As it goes (kids, work, weather, etc.), I have not been able to make a single check mark on my list...yet.  But, when one (restaurant) door closes, another opens.  I've so far been to no fewer than five memorable spots... and we've only reached the Ides of July! 

HORSERADISH GRILL

Touting itself as a "Neighborhood Barn & Grill," Horseradish Grill stands as a rustic, yet sophisticated mainstay of Southern dining in the Atlanta suburbs.  The chef, Daniel Alterman, is the son of the owner, and he grew up in the kitchen of this converted barn.  He has the benefit and luxury of a beautiful and bountiful garden literally in his own back yard, and he uses it to its maximum yield.  HRG has been doing for years what is now popularly recognized as the Slow Food Movement in the South:  Grow your own.  Use fresh, local ingredients whenever possible.  Respect the source and the process.  To this end, the Altermans are rightfully featured on Emeril's Cooking Channel tome to American dining institutions, "The Originals."

 You feel at home in this prime piece of real estate across from Chastain Park, what with the bevy of blooming flowers in the front, and the beautiful veggies and herbs sprouting out back.  The owners have done a good job of creating a space that is equal parts cozy and classy, and in many ways, the food can be described in the same way.  My tablemates and I shared some apps first.  The standout was the North Carolina Barbecue.  A plate of pulled smoked pork atop a cornmeal pancake, with a crisp, creamy cole slaw and a vinegar-tomato sauce.  Awesome balance of BBQ flavors, all coming together in ideal fashion for my tastes.  I also enjoyed the HRG Caesar Salad, with house made cornmeal croutons and shaved Reggiano parmesan.   I obliged the menu's siren call for its "Famous" Skillet Fried Chicken with garlic green beans and Yukon whipped mashed potatoes.  And they serve you the entire chicken, in parts! The knowledgeable waitress let me in on the process:  brining the chicken for 24 hours, then bathing it in buttermilk for another 24.  Jack Bauer would be proud.  Two shared desserts were equally different and decadent:  an insanely rich and dense Chocolate Chocolate Layer Cake (do I studder?!), and a perfectly fresh Organic Peach Cobbler with homemade vanilla ice cream. 

This was a solid, if not spectacular, Southern meal.  There are a lot of newer Atlanta establishments that benefit from star chefs and glitzier locations, but Horseradish Grill still remains as an Original.  Just ask Emeril...     

CAKES AND ALE

In the heart of the locavore-loving hamlet of Decatur sits one of its latest darlings, Cakes & Ale.  Named after a famous Shakespeare quote from Twelfth Night, this unassuming spot creates - and re-creates - their menu almost every day, the food made from scratch using the season's best, local and sustainable produce and products.

In stark contrast to the more traditional bent of Horseradish Grill, Cakes & Ale is all tattoos and piercings and black tees.  But lemme tell ya, the New Guard can work a pan!                    

With the wealth of their selections scrawled in chalk upon entering, you know right off the bat what you're about to eat will be freshhhhh.  What I was really surprised about was how diverse the offerings would be.  Before the food mentions, I must give a shout out to one of the most interesting cocktails I've ever tasted.  They clearly take equal pride in their mixology, and it shows.  Their Pineapple Habanero Gimlet was sweet, spicy, and sensationally singular.  Like a shot of Jamaican hot sauce with your gin and soda, except this beauty featured vodka instead of gin, lime juice, and powdered sugar along with the pineapple juice and pepper.  Yeah, it was that good!    

The food, as stated, was creatively cultivated, and technically precise.  Our waitress was as subtle as a hammer in "recommending" we order tapas-style, with small plates to share between everyone at the table.  The highlights included Arnacini (fried rice balls) sprinkled with pollen fennel, and the Buffalo Mozzarella with summer tomatoes, basil, prosciutto and fresh peaches.  There was also homemade Gnocchi with lamb sugo and fresh chanterelles, each component melt-in-your-mouth good, and my seared Scallops were on point, as well.  The dishes were imaginative riffs on classic combinations.

It's the kind of place that encourages sharing, tasting, and a bit of an adventurous palette.  If you're up for all three of those, then Cakes & Ale is a place you'll look forward to making a habit of visiting...

Next:  Part 2:  Athens 

Breakfast in EAT-lanta

While everyone still has Thanksgiving on the brain... I am still recalling fond memories of a breakfast I enjoyed a scant few days ago, before turkey and stuffing dominated my taste buds. And while I felt a pang of regret for not paying a visit to my favorite breakfast spot in the ATL (oh, Flying Biscuit, how I still love thee), I was psyched for my first experience at the Original Pancake House...

I learned, actually, that the original Original is in Portland, Oregon, born in 1953 at the loving hands of Les Highet and Erma Hueneke. They now have over one hundred franchises from coast to coast, which have won local and national acclaim. The recipes demand only the very finest of ingredients, such as 93 score butter, pure 36% whipping cream, fresh grade AA eggs, hard wheat unbleached flour, and their own recipe sourdough starter. Their batters and sauces are made fresh in each restaurant’s kitchen. All of this TLC shines through, from the waitresses to the retro decor. This is a diner upon which all diner's should be measured...

I ordered big and broad, wanting to sample as much of their menu as possible. The signature of the OPH is their Dutch Baby, described by its originators as "an air filled delight oven baked to golden perfection and served with lemon, whipped butter and powdered sugar to create a mouthwatering blend." What an incredible combo! So light (a cross between a crepe and a pancake), so bright (loved the fresh-squeezed lemon juice), and just the right amount of decadent (butter, powdered sugar). It went faster than expected...but luckily, I still had room for more -- namely, my bacon pancakes. Need is say more? The balance of savory and sweet is right in my stomach's wheelhouse. If you've ever been pleasantly surprised by the happy accident that occurs on your plate when your maple syrup encroaches on your eggs and bacon... you know the joys of this dish. I'm honestly stunned that more breakfast joints don't offer this on their menus as a stand alone item...

And speaking of menus... the OPH's is extensive, if not overwhelmingly tempting. No fewer than 18 pancake offerings, plus waffles, and omelet variations, too, each one deserving of a taste.
The potato pancakes warrant special mention, as well. They're made flat, and although I prefer the crispy kind, derivative of hash browns, these were plenty satisfying.

Kudos to the Original Pancake House for keepin' it real, sticking with what works (and has for over 50 years), and earning a place in my heart... along with another bookmark as a place I will continue to visit on my many returns to the ATL...

10 Degrees of Separation...

Rounded out my Atlanta eating adventures with dinner at 10 Degrees South (http://www.10degreessouth.com/) in Buckhead. A unique spot and dining experience that gets high marks for being anything but run-of-the-mill...

This restaurant features South African decor and cuisine. Imagine a mashup of French, Scandinavian, and Mediterranean , and you can start to grasp some of the flavor profiles that show up on the menu. It is deceptively cool and chic on the inside, since the outside looks more like an office building than a restaurant. Lots of dark, warm colors, bamboo, and draperies. They must save a bundle on electricity, because most of the lighting is derived from candles and windows! Romantic? Yes. Practical? No. (this is my one curmudgeonly criticism of upscale spots like this)...

Eating with our good friends, the Deutschers (Tara gets credit for the dining selection), we shared a handful of apps with our drinks: lobster and chicken curry egg rolls, which were very tasty and served with dollops of mashed potatoes. They were long and thin; more like Mexican taquitos than egg rolls. The lobster ones came with a Russian dressing-inspired sauce -- I'm guessing it was a wink-and-a-nod to the traditional Lobster Thermidor accompaniment. The chicken version has a nicely spicy/creamy Sambal (chile based sauce) with it. This, along with Bobotie (a minced meat dish) were some of South African-inspired terms and tastes I was introduced to -- always good to keep learning! Also shared sauteed mushrooms and garlic bread. All simple preparations and presentations...

I ordered off the menu for my entree: the Swordfish special. It came with a side of yellow rice and puree of butternut squash. Its texture reminded me of baby food, but not necessarily in a bad way. It was bright and velvety, with chunks of apple for a bit of extra sweetness. The swordfish was served grilled and lightly seasoned, with a mango chutney and grilled.

We all shared a chocolate molten lava cake for dessert, which for me was a the highlight of the meal. Served with a scoop of pure vanilla ice cream, for my money, there is nothing that matches the combo of cold and warm when it comes to sweets, and we practically licked the plate clean between the 4 of us...

This meal was solid, if not spectacular, and my palate really appreciated something out of the ordinary that 10 Degrees had to offer. I now have a much better appreciation and understanding of what is often called "Rainbow Cuisine"...

Down on the Farm (Burger)

Another night, another memorable Atlanta meal. This time, it was back to Decatur to see what all the buzz was about concerning 2-month-old Farm Burger (http://www.farmburger.net/). Not too dissimilar from my previous night's meal, inasmuch as the mission statement of this place also focuses its emphasis squarely on the side of local farms and sustainable ingredients. In other words, this is not yo momma's burger joint...

Farm Burger justifies the positive press, and it's not just for the positive vibe it puts out, although that vibe is tangibile. To wit, I quote from a poster on their wall:

Farm Burger wants you to think about your burger - what it is and where it's from. Our burgers are made from 100% grassfed beef that is dry-aged for two weeks and ground daily. Our cows are raised on the sweet grasses of the southeast, and never fed antibiotics, hormones, or grain. Our menu is seasonal and sourced from local farms. Our space is convivial and comfortable - because eating is a celebration to be shared. Our food makes ethical eating easy.

To put it in more digestible terms, grassfed cows are happier cows, healthier cows, and tastier cows... sounds good to me!

The first thing I noticed when I walked in, apart from the throng that had already congregated in and around the place, was the Big Black Board. So many options, all tantalizingly tempting, spelled out in a made-to-order process. I suppose the goal is to expedite the ordering, but for me, it nearly short-circuited my hunger synapses. Do I go with a custom-made creation or order a Blackboard Burger? Gruyere or Sweetgrass Asher Blue? Decisions, decisions. Then, I spotted a burger description out of the corner of my eye: the No. 6! It called to me. I answered (on the first ring). A burger with house cured bacon, atop a sunny-side-up egg, with melted pepperjack cheese and salsa verde as the topper. Sweet potato fries on the side. This was like breakfast, lunch and dinner in my mouth all at once. What a combination! An (almost) literal melting pot of flavors. A union of taste where the whole is greater than the sum of its parts. At times like this, I am inspired to near-Shakespearian bliss... Oh, how the bright yellow yolk escaped down the sides once I pressed the bun top ever so delicately on top of this creation! How the thick cut bacon was at once crunchy and chewy! How the pepperjack was melted, spicy perfection, somehow accomplishing the near-impossible, yet noble duty of keeping all the singular ingredients in place! And lastly, how the salsa verde was the final flavor profile to hit my taste buds, providing a last bit of bright, fresh taste! It was ecstasy on a bun...

It dawned on me then, after my initial frustration with not being able to taste each and every variation of Farm Burger available right then and there, full stomach be damned: that is what return trips are for. It is the journey, not the destination.

Although in this case, it's a little bit of both...

The Wonders of Woodfire Grill

At the risk of hyperbole, my meal last night at Woodfire Grill (http://www.woodfiregrill.com/) stands
as one of the best overall experiences I've ever had at a restaurant. As evidence, I literally dreamed about the food last night, waking up in the middle of the night at the prospect of writing this blog entry! Last time I remember feeling so fulfilled (not full; fulfilled!) was last year, after the tasting menu at Scott Conant's Scarpetta in NYC. Woodfire is Kevin Gillespie's Atlanta hotspot (he of Top Chef Season 6 fame), and if you even casually watched that season and appreciated Kevin's talents, you will know he stays true to himself and his food philosophy on TV and in real life. Woodfire focuses on local, sustainable and organic ingredients. And it shows...

The resto itself is beautiful and welcoming, with lots of natural light to showcase the dark wood that surrounds the interior. Unique lighting fixtures offset the stark, white tablecloths. It's an intimate feel despite the relatively open main dining room and high ceilings. Lots of nooks and crannies to cozy into. Lucky for me, I was with a party of six, and our cousins, Matt & Leigh Anne, have a connection to the owner, so that got us a primo rezzie (7:15) and an even more impressive private room nestled in the back corner...

Started off @ the bar where bartender (or is it mixologist?!) Blake recommended the Left Hand Milk Stout. Blake was a sign of things to come: knowledgeable, friendly, helpful. And as it turns out, spot on with his pick. This Colorado beer "accidentally" mixes in milk sugar to it's stout recipe, the result a dark, yet surprisingly well-balanced taste. They liken it to putting "cream in your coffee." Served in a cold glass on a hot summer night, it was a revelation that a stout can be so refreshing... Check 'em out on their own blog @ http://www.lefthandbrewing.blogspot.com/ ...

Tucked away from a bustling Wednesday night crowd, our waitress Jo Jo was, like Blake at the bar, super-attentive and aiming to please. I scanned their impressive wine list, and had to decide between the $38 Van Duzer Pinot Noir and the $51 Maysara (both from Willamette Valley, OR). She had an instant new fan in me when she promoted the Van Duzer. I could've easily been swayed to the more expensive bottle (which we ultimately ordered second anyway!), but her recommendation showed to me that Jo Jo was an advocate as well as a waitress!So now (deep breath), onto the meal... In true fine dining form, the menu is fairly spartan -- because it changes frequently due to the availability of local, fresh ingredients -- and spilt into three courses. Suffice it to say, every item sounded incredible, so it took us all a while to decide. Although the tasting menu was tempting, we ordered off the menu. Here's my lineup:

1st: Oven Roasted Poblano Pepper with Sheeps Milk Ricotta, Summer Veggie Saute, & Sweet Corn Sauce. So many layers of flavor and texture in this small plate. The spice of the firm pepper, the smooth creaminess of the cheese, the slight crunch of the fresh veggies, even the colors on the plate worked beautifully...

2nd: Wood Grilled Berkshire Pork Belly. Kevin is masterful in a lot of ways, but especially so when it comes to the wonders of The Pig! This pork belly (its texture approached that of a firm foie gras) was so succulent, and served with little neck clams, pickled ramp aioli, and chives. It was artfully displayed on the plate, and the chefs showed restraint in letting the pork belly shine as the star, because the other flavors that complimented it could have been a distraction otherwise. A small smear of aioli here, a dusting of crunchy chives there. It all came together in spades...

Main: Almost everyone else at the table ordered the Pork Loin, but I went with the Wood Grilled Painted Hills Ribeye (my decision colored by the fact that I had the pork belly prior). Of course, pork was never too far away, as the fingerling potatoes were roasted in pork fat (a man after my own heart, this Gillespie!). The steak was perfectly cooked, and I got the distinct impression that the percentage of fat on the cut of steak was left there on purpose. It was served with a roasted pepper chimichurri, but, believe it or not, the most memorable thing on the plate was also the simplest: a solitary charred heirloom tomato that practically melted when I pierced it with my fork and knife. The epitome of this place's culinary value system. It was all unanimously delicious -- including the Butterbean and Carolina Gold Rice Risotto that was at our table, as well...

Still swooning over our meals, everyone ordered dessert, and it was a delicious ending to our meal. I thoroughly enjoyed my Mint Ice Cream Sandwich, with it's chocolate cookie enclosing the ice cream, and chocolate meringue on top, along with a helping of homemade strawberry jam as an extra note. In keeping with the rest of the food served, there were layers of flavor and texture that kept everything in balance...

As a closing aside, I ran into Executive Sous Chef EJ Hodgkinson on our way out. I thanked him for putting out such terrific food, and, as he casually mentioned, he started here right when former chef Michael Tuohy was lighting out for Sacramento to return to his NoCal roots. This is the same Michael Tuohy who's Grange Restaurant I thoroughly enjoyed a couple of weeks back in Sacramento (and blogged about on 6/23)! Turns out Hodgkinson is blazing a similar path as Tuohy, coming to Atlanta to establish and solidify his reputation and skills, and then... who knows...? Best of luck to EJ; I will definitely keep an eye out for him and the most assuredly good things to come...

That said, my recent restaurant raves have come full circle!!

Woodfire is a place I will not soon forget, and plan on returning to as often as I can. It surpassed any expectations I could have had, and is a shining example of the ambitious, yet simple style a restaurant and it's chefs can succeed with by sticking to the basics and infusing their personal creativity and style...

My Happy Place Revisited

Back from Spring Break in Georgia, which means... I get to make my habitual pilgrimage to my one of my favorite eateries in the country: The Flying Biscuit in the Candler Park 'burb of Atlanta...

A gorgeous spring day to spend a late morning/brunch feast.

As much as I'd love to dive into the rest of the menu and sample everything the Biscuit has to offer, I cannot avoid the magnetic pull of the High Flyer. It has everything I love about this place, all on one plate: 2 eggs, chicken sausage, creamy, dreamy grits, a side of an organic oatmeal pancake with peach compote, and -- you guessed it -- a biscuit! Yes, yes, this is a carb-lover's dream, and I should not make a habit of going this route... but the induglence is always justifiable after the first bite.

Love the Bohemian, easy going atmosphere at this, the original Flying Biscuit (there are a couple others in the ATL and they are now branching out to FL and NC -- funny story: Had a guy from Charlotte stope me at Disney World to comment on my Flying Biscuit tee shirt I was sporting!).

They're all about healthy, hearty portions in a friendly environment.

If you've never been to one -- get there! This place is the one reason I would seriously consider trying out the restaurant biz...