I am working out of chronological order for this round of blog posts, because my most recent is the one I cannot wait to send out the most. I am in the throes of another barnstorming Food Media Tour, which sends me to 10 cities over the course of 2 weeks or so. But when a market is signed on that I've never been to, it gets my juices flowing. And when that market is based in Asheville, NC... well, get me a bib, because my salivary glands are going into overdrive...I've long heard of Asheville as an impressive enclave of food, music, and the arts. The location in the Appalachian Mountains, the green spaces, the public places, conspire to form an idyllic backdrop for everything expressive. Location-wise, it doesn't disappoint. Think of it as Aspen's cool, crunchy cousin.
But, let's face it. I was here for the food. And I was on a mission of sorts, seeing as how I had less than 24 hours to visit an endless array of places recommended by either friends or reading materials. So herewith, my dining log from May 31-June 1, 2011...
4:25pm - I pull into downtown Asheville and immediately begin my quest. Unfortunately, I am in 'tweener time for some of the places I intend on visiting, so I decide to "get lost" on the streets and see what I can stumble upon. One recommendation I received was Magnolias. Come to find they're closed on Tuesdays, but it turned into a stroke of luck, because as I turned to head back into the heart of downtown I came across The Southern Kitchen & Bar . This was not on my list, but it seemed like the kind of place that had a quintessential Asheville vibe to it. From its appearance, I was not convinced of the food aspect, but I could tell it would be a great place to satisfy my thirst before I got to eating. Wrought iron scrollwork entryway, brick patio, dark mahogany and wallpaper interiors. Cool as a bar scene, for sure. I was right and wrong all at once. The beer -- a local (BTW, LOCAL is the key word in describing all things food and beverage related in Asheville) called Boogie Down Brown -- was spot on what I was looking for. I am a big Newcastle fan, and this had the nuttiness and deep flavor to it, but on an elevated level. Excellent. I ordered off their Happy Hour menu (from 3-5pm...YES!), and honed in on their version of the classic Hot Brown. Their was aptly named the Hot Southern, and it was amazingly restrained yet flavorful, considering it adhered to the main components of it origins. This version featured local braised, pulled pork atop a spread of pimento cheese on a crostini, topped with a radish-carrot slaw. What a fresh take! It was the antithesis of the heavy, saturated, gravy-forward dish your mind conjures when you hear Hot-Anything (for reference, a traditional Hot Brown originated in Louisville @ the famous Brown Hotel, and features turkey, bacon, and some commercial cheese, slathered in a Mornay gravy sauce.). This still had the savory tastes, but so thoughtfully re-imagined. A scan of the rest of their menu shows how diverse and creative this area as a whole can be. A tremendous surprise for starters on my sojourn... and only the beginning...
5:10pm - With no time to waste, I hiked up to the heart of downtown, on Patton Ave., for my first experience at Salsa's. Thanks to a friend's referral as a "must-go" spot, I got there right as they re-opened after their lunch reset. Let me tell you, Chef Hector Diaz is a freakin' rock star. So many temptations on his eclectic Mexican-Caribbean menu. I went with a special on that day's menu: Spliff Rolls (how could I not?!). Best way to describe these: Crab Rangoon on Vacation in Jamaica. Crispy won ton-inspired tortillas filled with an intoxicating mix of crab, cheese, and peppers, accompanied by a spicy curry sauce and a gorgeous, fresh pineapple salsa. This dish had it all going on at once. Crunchy, sweet, heat, meaty, cheesy... I mean, c'mon, how could it not be named what it is?! It was all I could do to resist what I knew were killer margaritas, but I had more work to do. This stop was spectacularly satisfying. Onward!...
6:10pm - My third and final stop of the evening (I'm a glutton, but even I have limits...) was at the newest face of the Asheville food scene, and some may say it's most ambitious. Curate is only a few months old, but it's already garnering local and national acclaim. I read about it in GQ and made it a point to pay a visit, based on the fact that it's proprietors are descendants of El Bulli (reality check: this would be the closest I'd be coming to the Most Famous Restaurant in the World for quite some time, if ever). Curate promises traditional Spanish tapas, but something was telling me this was not going to be typical. The atmosphere is warm and inviting, yet sophisticated and even chic for Asheville's laid back standards. I ordered two small plates: the patatas bravas and the berenjenas la taberna. Both came out at the same time, and it was like a classic Spanish duel for my taste buds' affections. The patatas -- small chunks of fried potatoes topped with a combo "brava" sauce (think gourmet mayo and spicy ketchup) -- brought the savory to the battle; the berenjenas -- large eggplant medallions lightly fried and drizzled with wild mountain apiary honey topped with rosemary -- delivered on the sweets. There was pure culinary artistry on the plate, and every bite was validation of the reputation that already precedes this place. My glass of Con Class ( A Sauv Blanc blend) was a willing and able side note. The battle was a draw. But I was the winner...
10:15am -- Tupelo Honey Cafe for a breakfast I've been thinking about since my last bite before bed the night before. Breakfast is my favorite, and the first thing that jumped out at me from their tantalizing menu was their Sweet Potato Pancakes. Buttermilk batter with cinnamon and sweet potato mixed in, topped with whipped fresh peach butter and spiced pecans. OH. MY. GOD. Much like my raves for Charleston's Husk, this is what New South Cooking is all about. Elegantly accomplished, yet comfortably casual. This is my definitive Favorite Pancake from this point forward. The standard bearer by which all others will be measured. I felt like I wanted to eat... the whole restaurant. It was the kind of meal that makes me smile while I am chewing. This alone warrants a return trip to Asheville (as if I will need such further motivation)...
11:05am -- Satiated as I was from my pancake nirvana, I forged ahead for one last stop: Early Girl Eatery. This is another Asheville staple; a true farm to table Southern spot that is as endearing on the inside as the name would indicate. Despite how tempting the morning special Omelette sounded, I felt the pang of tradition tapping in my stomach. I ordered the Shrimp 'n Grits because... well, that's what you order in a town like this, at a place like this! The shrimp were plump and plentiful; the andouille sausage was spot on; the grits were prepared perfectly; the gravy was not too heavy and dotted with tomatoes. A fitting conclusion to my Asheville Experience...You see tee-shirts at every venue proclaiming "Love Asheville." These folks are fiercely devoted to their city and their food philosophy of Local, Local, Local. It shows in what's put on the plate, and almost more so in the people who deliver it. Asheville, you have my heart, and my taste buds. I cannot wait to return to try any number of other places to fall in love with as I have already with the 5 I was introduced to this time around. I'm all in.
I most certainly do Love Asheville...
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