A New (Old) Frontier in New Mexico

Staying at a downtown hotel in Albuquerque afforded me easy access to the surroundings that make up the University of New Mexico campus.  The strip on Central is typical of a downtown, campus-supported area:  bars, cheap eats, etc.  Turns out a legendary place is smack-dab across the street from the school's main entrance. 

Frontier is the kind of place where generations and mingle easily and comfortably, any and all socio-economic and/or cultural differences set aside in favor of the honest, simple food served under the conspicuous yellow barn roof.

This spot has been so popular, in fact, that it now occupies an entire city block, having expanded over the years to engulf shops and eateries that have come and gone.

Frontier is open all day and night (5am-1am) and is apparently known for their own take on a sweet roll (appropriately named the Frontier Sweet Roll), but I was there for dinner... an authentic New Mexican dinner.  Which is why I ordered the Frontier Burrito. Now, if you've never been through New Mexico, or the Southwest in general, you've never truly experienced the beauty of the Green Chile.  It has an umami-like

quality, which is to say, there's something indescribable and unique that sets it apart from other chiles.  Hot but not fiery, it speaks to my taste buds in a way no other spicy food does.  And it's a common ingredient in EVERYTHING served in New Mexico.  Everything! 

So it was with my Frontier burrito, stuffed with beef, beans, and a green chile stew, along with the aforementioned chiles (you thought I was kidding?).  This is old-fashioned, no-frills food... and I loved how the menu has a section reserved exclusively for "New Mexican Food."  Not "Mexican," "NEW Mexican."  There is a difference.  And I tasted it in all it's simple, savory glory, at Frontier. 

Hangover or not,.. THE place for Breakfast in Vegas

I just so happened to be working at a Vegas TV station that was all of 5 minutes away from what turns out to be an Off-The-Strip breakfast institution since 1988.  The Egg & I is a relatively nondescript joint off the beaten path, but all it takes is a cursory Internet search to realize this is a local fave.  Now I know why...

Super-friendly service with your classic, homespun fare.  There are also some creative combos listed on the menu, and I was drawn to the Bacon, Avocado, and Cheese Omelet.  It was huge, and the heaping helping of home fries (cubed, seasoned, crispy) was nearly its match in sheer volume.  The omelet was still relatively light, a feat considering how much was loaded inside.  The bacon retained its crunch, and was complimented nicely by the smooth creaminess of the avo.  A dollop of sour cream on the side was a nice touch, too.

But the unmitigated star is neither egg nor potato-based in nature.  It is the Egg Works secret family recipe for their homemade banana muffins.  I wouldn't have thought twice about it except for my aforementioned helpful server, who recommended I sub it for toast.  Oh.  My.  Gosh.  It is super-moist and dark, almost ebony, in color.  The only things I could be sure of is that there was chocolate and molasses in the ingredients.  Anything else that makes it so sensational remains a mystery.  And maybe some things are better left unspoken.  This was just one of the magical, memorable food moments that totally took me off guard.  I know I will never taste many banana muffins in my time... and none will take the place of the stunner at the Egg & I...

    

A Random Helping of Restaurants

I am summoning my inner-Springsteen cum "Light of Day" interlude for this post... seeing as how I've been there and back to any number of cities in between posts ("I've been 100 miles -- 200 miles -- 300 miles...").

The best place to start is right in my own backyard, with kudos to the Renaissance Vinoy for bringing the Blue Ribbon Brombergs into the fold to help jazz up their menus.  The Bromberg Brothers have been at it since '92 in NYC (and now also have a spot at the Cosmo in Vegas).  Got to attend a special "premier" party for the tastings unveiling, and there were small plates as well as 2 cocktails to enjoy.  The lineup:  BBQ Pork Sliders, Fried Rock Shrimp (with a lemon cayenne sauce), Grilled Chicken Burgers (the people's choice favorite!), Manchego and Mexican Honey Toast, "Northern Fried" Chicken Wings, and White Bean Hummus Toast. 

All very tasty and a definite upgrade in reputation and results.  Had the pleasure of spending a few minutes with Chef Eric Bromberg, who is a real down-to-earth guy, despite the massive success he and brother Bruce have experienced in recent years with their Blue Ribbon franchise.  All I know is, I'm glad their consulting biz joined forces with Renaissance properties,and even happier that the Vinoy was in the pilot program to get this venture off the ground...

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Went a bit farther outta my way than usual on one of my frequent jaunts to the Philly area recently.  Found myself at 333 Belrose Bar & Grill in Radnor for what turned out to be a better-than expected meal.  The outside is so unassuming and tucked away... but the inside is classy and hip and inviting.  The decor, the service, menu... all impressive.  Enjoyed their Java Pork Tenderloin with Maple Smashed Yams, Black Bean Sauce, & a Mango-Jalapeno Salsa.  A lot of flavor profiles going on in this dish... and they all worked so well.  The meat was cooked perfectly and was extremely juicy.  It was the centerpiece of a plate that had color, variety, and creativity.  An out-of-the-way place that was clearly not a secret for the locals (it was bustling), and one that I look forward to returning to again...

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Vegas, Baby, for me, has nothing to do with casinos and clubs... it's all about the food scene, which is stellar, to say the least.  With only one dinner to deal with, it was a no-contest as to where I was headed, despite the plethora of places to eat.  Cue the Cosmopolitan for Chef Scott Conant's   wine bar, juxtaposed to his well-loved Italian mini-empire, Scarpetta... DOCG.  On his personal recommendation, I passed on a table in the main dining area, and bellied up to what is a gorgeous, sleek bar running the length of the right side of the restaurant. 

I started with the DOCG Pizza, which was a symphony of classic white pizza flavors.  Beautifully blistered thin crust, a mouth-watering foundation of fonduta cheese, a duck egg yolk that was broken and spread across the entire surface (and right in front of me!), and then the white truffles...ohhhhh, the white truffles.  An embarrassing abundance of shavings that were equal parts delicate and decadent.  The entire pie disappeared in an instant.  Then, the main course:  Braised Short Ribs with Creamy Polenta & Vegetables.  The meat was exceptionally tender atop the dreamy polenta.  The cabernet-colored sauce was almost an afterthought, what with the natural flavors of the ribs.  A rustic, succulent dish that capably highlights what Scott envisions from his restaurants.  Vintage Italian cookery, paying homage to comfort food at it's most classic, but refined and elegant, too.  Simple and sophisticated.  Scott, you've done it again...

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Still to come... my trip out West continues, with Albuquerque and Sacramento on tap...