call it RICH-sotto

I've been on a major risotto kick lately. You may even call it a bender. No doubt about it, I have risotto on the brain these days...

The more I ponder the wonders of this classic Italian dish, the easier it becomes to understand why one could so quickly become addicted to it on a number of levels... but I can only speak for myself:

1. Risotto is authentic. Dig into your grandmother's grandmother's cook books, and you'd find at least one recipe for the stuff. It's multigenerational, Old World cooking.


2. Risotto is adaptable. The base of your risotto should always remain constant: shallots/onions, arborio rice, white wine, stock/broth of your choosing, cheese (preferably, parm). But the rest is blissfully left to your wildest imagination. Lobster, mushrooms, corn, bacon, butternut squash... just about any ingredient within reason can find a home in risotto. It's the Ellis Island of Italian eating.


3. Risotto is... wait for it... easy. Wait a minute -- did I just write that? Don't you have to pore over your stove top, plodding, coaxing, conjuring the ingredients to get the desired effect just right?? In a word: NO. I am no expert, but any risotto dish I've made takes no more than 30 minutes... AND YOU DON'T HAVE TO CONSTANTLY STIR!!! All risotto needs is a little love and attention. Don't let it soak up the liquid completely; give it the ol' wooden spoon swirl now and then, and your dish will come to life before your very eyes.


4. And maybe the best of all: Risotto makes you feel like a chef. Yes, while the components and the execution are not death-defying, I still always get that satisfaction of knowing that this could be as close to restaurant-quality fare as I'll ever get in my home kitchen. There's a truth I find in making risotto; a balance of pride and humility. This is good, honest cooking.
   

For my money (and taste), I rarely measure out ingredients, but it usually goes something like this for the risotto itself:

• 2 diced shallots in olive oil in a large saute pan.


• When softened, add 1c arborio rice, and mixing until coated.


• Add 1c white wine (Chard, Sauv Blanc, even Pinot will do)


• Once most of the liquid is absorbed add 1/2c doses of broth (I default to chicken), adding more each time the liquid is absorbed. Continue for approx. 20:00.


• Add extra ingredients of your choice.


• Stir in 1/2-1c grated Parmesan cheese.
  

Try these few samplings of add-ons. I've recently made them all, with great fanfare...

• Baby Bella
  
• Corn and Bacon


• Zucchini and Roasted Sweet Peppers
  
• Butternut Squash and Wild Mushrooms

At it's best, it's creamy and comforting; rich and rewarding; savory and simple. It's...

risotto.

A Must-Have Meal in Milwaukee

Chef Paul Bartolotta has accomplished something that perhaps a superstar chef can only achieve in the Midwest: he has created a culinary empire that still feels like a family-run establishment. Maybe that's because... it is. Brother Joe still runs the flagship, Ristorante Bartolotta, in the leafy burg of Wauwatosa, and the spot's cozy confines make you feel as if you're walking into your grandma's house for Sunday dinner... that is, if your grandma had garlic, peppers, peasants, and assorted charcuterie hanging from the ceiling!... This welcoming homieness, of course, belies the fact that there is some seriously refined, albeit classic, Italian cooking going on here.

This time around, I started with the Affettato Misto di Prosciutto e Salumi alla Emiliana - an assortment of shaved prosciutto and other Italian cured artisan meats with traditional gnocco fritto. Mortadella. Sopresatta. Speck. It was all there, and the gnocchi fritto was an amazing addition to the plate, like mini-sweet rolls, all crunchy and chewy at the same time. A more than healthy portion of all the good stuff...

My entree was one of the two pasta dishes where the pasta is freshly made in-house: Ravioli di Magro al Burro Nociola Tartufato - house made ricotta and spinach ravioli, with Grana Padana and truffled butter. Melt in your mouth goodness. A classic example of how premium ingredients combined with back-of-the-house know-how makes for a transcendent presentation, even in its simplest form...

My favorite dessert is tiramisu, and ordering is always a calculated risk, seeing as how there a number of variations on this Italian classic. Knowing I was in the best of hands at Barotolotta, I splurged (having reveled in it before didn't hurt my chances either!). This is my personal gold standard for this dessert. Lots of creamy, custardy, fluffy goodness, tinged ever-so-slightly by a subtle coffee-amaretto highlight, and accented by a dusting of cocoa powder and powdered sugar. An absolutely ideal finisher to what is always a satisfying and sensational dining experience.

A Trip to Eataly

This amounts to either the biggest tease I've pulled on myself, or the most useless post this blog has seen. Why? Because I went to Eataly... AND I DIDN'T EAT ANYTHING. Not a damn thing. Not one morsel. Let me defend my heinous actions...

I was not anticipating having any time to pay my first visit to this emporium of everything Italian, courtesy of Batali & Bastianich. And in between my meetings, I had bookended two amazing meals, one of which was still lovingly digesting in my stomach (that being lunch, courtesy of David Burke Town House... see previous post). Needless to say, I was stuffed to the gills, and knowing I had an Italian fest approaching in a mere 2 hours (stay tuned for details), I made the dreadfully painful decision to eat with my eyes... and just window shop. So, I did what I normally don't do too often on this blog: I took lots of pictures!

They, of course, don't do the space, or the sundries, any justice whatsoever. This place is an absolute Italian wonderland of food, products, and more. At first, it recalled an Italian culinary version of Ikea, with it's massive, maze-like layout. But, unlike Ikea, the more lost you get in Eataly, the better. Wander in, and you're greeted by a hallway jammed with fresh veggies and fruits. Yes, I ogled the already-famous "Vegetable Butcher," who stands prepared to prep your veggies any way you like it. To the left, there's cookware and other accessories. Straight back, you get into the serious eats: meats, cheeses, wines, breads, pizzas & fish of all sorts and varieties. Each station has its own nook; its own gathering spot. What's amazing is, as jam-packed as this place looks from a bird's-eye view, it doesn't feel that way when you walk the floor. It's more like a big open air market, just without the blue skies and sunshine.

Eataly invites you to stroll, to slow down, to take your time...which I found from my one sojourn to Italy years ago, is the Italian way of life... especially when it comes to food.
I was so impressed with the authenticity of everything. Clearly, Batali & Co. accomplished what they set out to do.

In the end, I chalk this up to a recon mission: I staked out the floor plan, mapped out my mission, and strategized my game plan. Next time...ohhhh, next time... nothing edible will be safe from my grasp.

Bravo, Bella Brava!

The missus and I hit up the updated, hipper, more location-friendly incarnation of Bella Brava tonight, and the experience matched the unmatched real estate it now occupies in downtown St. Pete.

First off, the menu has changed as much as the decor. There's a much more minimalist vibe in the looks of the place, as well as the food. Gone are the fancy shmancy offerings for the eyes and the palette. Instead, it's somewhat of a stripped down, honest-to-goodness, authentic Trattoria experience. While it is still sleek and sexy outside and in, the menu and the wait staff make you feel...comfortable.

My biggest problem, to be honest, was what to order. There is just about everything you'd want from a classic Italian place. Luckily, we had the luxury of a gift card (thanks Linda, Darin, & Theresa!) and a coupon to boot, so we were livin' large tonight!

We ordered a bottle of their wine special -- an Oregon Pinot, RouteStock. It was well-balanced and zesty, and got better as the meal progressed. Predictably, for me, I went traditional with my order, which is always my lithmus test for Italian places the first time around. Caprese Salad, Toscana Pizza (mushrooms, garlic, smoked mozzarella, goat cheese) to share, Trattoria Chicken Parmesan (with prosciutto and fontina), and marscapone mashed potatoes as a side.

The pizza was perfection. Great crust, perfectly melted cheeses and balanced toppings. The salad was fresh and bright, with just the right amount of salt and pepper to compliment the tomatoes, mozzarella, and basil. And, while I've had better chicken parm, I recognize I'm a bit of a snob when it comes to this dish, and respect them for putting their unique spin on it. Outside of the fact that I can't wait to sample other items on the menu, I would not hesitate to order this again.

Then, to our delight and surprise, our kind and knowledgeable waiter, Tom, informed us that the manager, Ryan, had directed him to comp us a dessert. Little did we expect it to be an entire platter of all the desserts they offer! Cheesecake, walnut brownies, tiramisu, panna cotta... it was all there... an orgy of sweets! We did our very best to indulge, but in the end, we surrendered to a full bag of leftovers. Bully for me, since I know I'll be the one who gets to enjoy them tomorrow!

The one thing that stood out to me, in the end, was that all of the menu items, including the ones we devoured, were repeatable. I mean, they tasted sufficiently freshly made, but I could already envision the entrepreneurial wheels turning, and other Bella Bravas sprouting up like other franchise forefathers before it (read: Bonefish Grill). The dishes are well-balanced, well-conceived, and well-executed. And if that does happen, all the power to 'em.

I just hope our own Bella Brava on Beach Drive doesn't forget where it came from...

Which 'Wich Do You Like?

Just entered a Sandwich Recipe Contest... here's what I submitted. What are your favorite sammies? Feel free to comment below!

Italian Umami Sandwich

This sandwich has components that are singularly crunchy, crispy & creamy; salty, sweet, & savory… and sometimes each ingredient has more than one of these qualities. They all balance each other out to create a wonderfully harmonious taste with each bite. I love the combination of the 2 varieties of pork – you can never have enough charcuterie, if you ask me! And I added the sundried tomato to the aioli because I thought it would be too cumbersome to add a tomato slice to the architecture, but I wanted tomatoes to be represented.

Crunchy (toasted Italian bread)
Crispy (pancetta)
Creamy (buffalo mozzarella)
Salty (prosciutto)
Sweet (roasted peppers)
Savory (sundried tomato basil aioli)

· Toast 2 slices Italian Bread (about ½” thick) on one side. Use toasted side on the inside of the sandwich.
· Spread Sundried Tomato Basil Pesto Aioli on bottom slice.
· Layer Sweet Roasted Red Peppers on top of aioli.
· Place 2 slices of Prosciutto on top of peppers.
· Lay ½” slice Buffalo Mozzarella on top of prosciutto.
· Place thin-sliced crispy Pancetta on top of mozzarella.
· Top with Baby Arugula.
· Finish with top slice of bread (toasted side inside again).

BON APPETIT!

Best of the Best (of the Best) has begun...

In a recent post on this blog, I committed myself to preparing the dozen or so recipes I earmarked in a new cook book I received, the "Best of the Best Cook Book Recipes" from Food & Wine. Not exactly the Herculean -- or should I say, Julie Powell-ian task -- of working my way through Julia Child's seminal recipe tome (as depicted in "Juile & Julia"), but an undertaking nonetheless.
My first step in this abridged adventure was courtesy of Andrew Carmellini and Gwen Hyman's "Urban Italian." I picked a pasta dish thinking it would be a somewhat simple place to start. Rigatoni Pugliese. And while I was not entirely incorrect (the rigatoni part was a breeze!), the sauce was going to be maiden voyage for me into uncharted culinary waters: making a sauce from scratch.
This one turns out to be a sauce-within-a-sauce, because the it features Carmellini's Basic Tomato Sauce, which is the base for so many of his dishes, as it's main component.
So really, there are two recipes to share here. Let's start with the Basic Tomato Sauce:

1. 2 1/2 (I used 3) 35 oz. cans of good quality Italian canned tomatoes (Andrew recommends San Marazano; I used Cento). Squeeze out the seeds and juice and discard. (* NOTE: this was tricky for me: I didn't know if I was losing too much of the good stuff inside, but Carmellini explains that it's crucial to get the sauce to the right consistency)
2. Top tomatoes chunks with a generous amount of kosher or sea salt (about a heaping tsp) to draw out any excess moisture.
3. Cook down the tomatoes over medium heat in a pan or pot with a wide surface area for about 30 minutes. Ladle out any excess water. Smash the tomatoes with a wooden spoon during cooking to smooth out.
4. Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, heat 1 1/4 c EVOO with a head of garlic (top cut off to expose the cloves), 1 tsp crushed red pepper, and 1 c washed basil leaves (stems on) over medium heat to a simmer. Remove and reserve as soon as you hear the basil start to "crackle."
5. After the tomatoes have reduced by about 1/2, strain the flavored oil in and stir to combine. Cook for about another 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, and mix it up a bit at the end to help emulsify. (* NOTE: I never got mine to completely emulsify. It looked very oily to me, but don't worry: it still comes together in the end)

I prepped this in advance of the rest of the dish, because the rest is fairly quick and simple:

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.
2. Blanch 1 bunch of broccoli rabe (cleaned of outer leaves; stems trimmed) for about 90 seconds. Transfer to ice water bath.
3. Bring water back to a boil. Cook 1 lb. Rigatoni until al dente.
4. In a sautee pan, heat EVOO, broccoli rabe, 1/2 can of chick peas (save the liquid and other half!!), 1 clove of thin sliced garlic, and 1/4 tsp crushed red pepper. Season with salt and pepper. Sautee until all ingredients are well coated.
5. Meanwhile, blend the liquid of the 15 oz. can of chick peas with remaining 1/2 can of chick peas, for about a minute, until it forms a smooth paste. Add to Basic Tomato Sauce and cook for about 15 minutes.
6. Add sauce to drained rigatoni back in pasta pot and cook for about a minute.
7. Remove from heat and stir in 2 tbsp butter, 2 tsp EVOO (* NOTE: I skipped this because the sauce had enough oil already), and 1/2 c grated pecorino cheese (*NOTE: I used parmigiana reggiano).
8. Transfer to a large serving dish or plate. Top with another 1/2 c grated cheese and the broccoli rabe mixture. Serve immediately.

The reviews were spectacular. There really is no substitue for homemade sauce. This recipe allows for extra sauce, so you can either add it to the dish, or save it for another recipe. Well worth the effort and time.

Our only critique was the bitterness of the broccoli rabe. Not sure if it was operator error, but it just seemed to work against the rest of the flavors in the dish. I also skipped a main ingredient in the sauce: spicy Italian sausage. If you choose to use it, all you have to do is brown 1 lb. of sausage (out of its casing) in a pan, breaking it up into small pieces, and adding it to the sauce before combining with the pasta. I'm sure it will only enhance the intensity of the flavors, and give it even more of authentic Italian taste, but I had to cater to the crowd, so to speak!

One recipe down...how many more to go??... to be continued...

Food & Wine... My Favorite Sites

Just got the new cookbook from the editors of Food & Wine Magazine, "Best of the Best Cookbook Recipes." It features recipes from the 25 best cookbooks of the year. A daunting task, indeed. Flay, Robuchon, Trotter, Tramonto, Batali... they're all represented. Even my chef friend Michelle Bernstein (if you find yourself in South Flordia, you must visit her at Michy's on Biscayne Blvd. in Miami).
I've already tabbed over a dozen of them, from easy yet inspired Italian dishes, to aspirational, classic ones.
My mission will be to prepare all of these sooner than later (I'm no Julie Powell: I have 3 kids, ages 6 and under!) and report back the results, as well as divulge the recipes themselves, so maybe you can try, too...

Also, I wanted to give you a list of some of my favorite foodie sites I like to frequent, starting with the most recent one I discovered (apologies if I'm late to the game on this!)...

www.chow.com
http://newyork.grubstreet.com
www.eatdrinkordie.com
www.foodbuzz.com
www.shefzilla.com
... and, of course, www.foodandwine.com

It's Always Sunny In Philadelphia...

Just got back from my maiden voyage on QVC. After spending 8+ years at HSN, I have to say that, despite certain unavoidable similarities, it was breath of fresh air. And I can't let the opportunity pass to mention to those of you who happen by this posting, if you're interested in a phenomenal LCD HDTV, the one I presented this past weekend from Philips is as good as I've ever seen. Search for Philips on http://www.qvc.com and you can find out more (what can I say? It's in my blood!)...

As usual, I've parlayed my business travels into a foodie mission to discover some of the local flavor of the areas I call on. And these Philly suburbs didn't disappoint. Here's 2 to brag about, and for you to put on your list, if you ever find yourself in the 'Burbs of Brotherly Love...

On a rare break from my TV stint on Q, I headed to the charming, bustling, vibrant downtown hamlet of West Chester, PA to find Carlino's (http://www.carlinosmarket.com/). Part market, part bakery, part restaurant, Carlino's specializes in artisinal bread and recipes that have been handed down for three generations of Italian cooking and baking. A portrait of the family matriarch, Mama Carlino, hangs lovingly on the wall, thanking you as you check out. I immediately made a dash for the rear of the place, knowing I only had time for a sandwich. Like any good deli counter/sandwich shop, the day's offerings are handwritten in chalk, and the specialties of the house have down home names that make you want to order each one. I opted -- on the good word of the man behind the counter I ordered with -- for Mama's Meatball Hero. While he was preparing it, I strolled the aisles and saw how a bounty of fresh, local veggies, meats and cheeses, and deliciously tempting prepared sides, many of which would look good next to my grinder. I chose the roasted red peppers, and went back to claim my meal.

This sandwich didn't disappoint. First off, it was BIG. The hoagie roll was toasted, but you could tell the bread was super-fresh, and it soaked up a good portion of the homemade marinara sauce that was simmering under a generous helping of fresh mozzarella. The star(s), of course, were the meatballs. Not too big that you'd dislocate your jaw trying to bite into one, but certainly a healthy size, they were moist, and seasoned to perfection. Mind you, this was taking place as the staff was stacking chairs and closing down for their 7:00pm curfew. That says something to me. The crunch of the loaf was offset by how soft everything else was inside. I really appreciated that the sauce was not scalding, and the cheese was perfectly melted so it was not too gooey, and each bite came off clean. A sign of a talented sandwich maker, as much as it is the ingredients they use.

Stuffed but never satisfied, I had to try some of their homemade gelato and sorbetto, settling on a combo of coconut and vanilla sorbetto. A cool, tasty way to cleanse the palette and top off an authentic Italian meal...

Flash forward to the next morning. I am operating on a total of about 5 hours sleep over the last 2 1/2 days, so I know my body needed a solid wakeup call before heading to the airport.

I'd heard about the Classic Diner (http://www.classicdinerpa.com/) in Malvern from a couple of QVC'ers, and it was close enough to my hotel that it was an easy choice.

A crowded parking lot greeted me -- always a good sign on a Sunday morning at 8:30. The diner has a homey, cozy look to it, as it's clearly a converted house (I dug the white, beadboard wainscot inside). But the decor, and even the menu, have a decidedly trendy vibe. This was definitely not your NY/NJ/PA truck stop/greasy spoon diner.

From a quick study of said menu, I could tell I liked what I saw: upscale riffs on breakfast classics. First order of business -- coffee. I love a place with big cups, and this was certainly one of them. A good start. Then, the ordering. A tough call, since this is my favorite meal of the day, and there were so many I could've gone for. I ultimately went for a twist on a Hollenberg family fave: Banana and Peanut Butter... but Classic Diner makes it with French Toast!

I ordered mine with a side of something I only recently learned about, from friends who used to live in PA: scrapple. This would be my first time trying it. (for those of you not familiar, scrapple is basically all the leftover pig parts that don't make ham, bacon, or sausage... YUM!)

The scrapple came out first -- the best way to enjoy it is fried in a skillet and that's they way they did theirs. Two thin, rectangular slices, rather SPAM-looking. Tasty, for sure. Reminded me a slight bit of corned beef hash without the texture, and with a bit more spice to it.

The main entree arrived and was a gorgeous presentation. It tuned out to be a huge sandwich of brioche French toast, with a heaping helping of warm, melty Skippy peanut butter and bananas in between, and more bananas on top for garnish. A drizzling on the side of maple syrup for a hit of sweetness.

Way too much for even me to clean my plate, and I probably would've loved it even more if there was a better PB:'nanner ratio. The Skippy was a bit overpowering, making each bite, with the thick slabs of brioche and the banana slices, kinda difficult to work through. With that said, though, I thoroughly enjoyed the creativity and homemade-ness of it.

Undeniably satisfied, it was time to get to the airport and get on home...

(And, by the way, if you don't know the TV show which is the title of this posting, check your local listings for what channel FX is in your town and Check. It. Out!!! -- the funniest thing on TV, alongside Family Guy, 30 Rock, and Curb Your Enthusiasm.)...