The Wonders of Woodfire Grill

At the risk of hyperbole, my meal last night at Woodfire Grill (http://www.woodfiregrill.com/) stands
as one of the best overall experiences I've ever had at a restaurant. As evidence, I literally dreamed about the food last night, waking up in the middle of the night at the prospect of writing this blog entry! Last time I remember feeling so fulfilled (not full; fulfilled!) was last year, after the tasting menu at Scott Conant's Scarpetta in NYC. Woodfire is Kevin Gillespie's Atlanta hotspot (he of Top Chef Season 6 fame), and if you even casually watched that season and appreciated Kevin's talents, you will know he stays true to himself and his food philosophy on TV and in real life. Woodfire focuses on local, sustainable and organic ingredients. And it shows...

The resto itself is beautiful and welcoming, with lots of natural light to showcase the dark wood that surrounds the interior. Unique lighting fixtures offset the stark, white tablecloths. It's an intimate feel despite the relatively open main dining room and high ceilings. Lots of nooks and crannies to cozy into. Lucky for me, I was with a party of six, and our cousins, Matt & Leigh Anne, have a connection to the owner, so that got us a primo rezzie (7:15) and an even more impressive private room nestled in the back corner...

Started off @ the bar where bartender (or is it mixologist?!) Blake recommended the Left Hand Milk Stout. Blake was a sign of things to come: knowledgeable, friendly, helpful. And as it turns out, spot on with his pick. This Colorado beer "accidentally" mixes in milk sugar to it's stout recipe, the result a dark, yet surprisingly well-balanced taste. They liken it to putting "cream in your coffee." Served in a cold glass on a hot summer night, it was a revelation that a stout can be so refreshing... Check 'em out on their own blog @ http://www.lefthandbrewing.blogspot.com/ ...

Tucked away from a bustling Wednesday night crowd, our waitress Jo Jo was, like Blake at the bar, super-attentive and aiming to please. I scanned their impressive wine list, and had to decide between the $38 Van Duzer Pinot Noir and the $51 Maysara (both from Willamette Valley, OR). She had an instant new fan in me when she promoted the Van Duzer. I could've easily been swayed to the more expensive bottle (which we ultimately ordered second anyway!), but her recommendation showed to me that Jo Jo was an advocate as well as a waitress!So now (deep breath), onto the meal... In true fine dining form, the menu is fairly spartan -- because it changes frequently due to the availability of local, fresh ingredients -- and spilt into three courses. Suffice it to say, every item sounded incredible, so it took us all a while to decide. Although the tasting menu was tempting, we ordered off the menu. Here's my lineup:

1st: Oven Roasted Poblano Pepper with Sheeps Milk Ricotta, Summer Veggie Saute, & Sweet Corn Sauce. So many layers of flavor and texture in this small plate. The spice of the firm pepper, the smooth creaminess of the cheese, the slight crunch of the fresh veggies, even the colors on the plate worked beautifully...

2nd: Wood Grilled Berkshire Pork Belly. Kevin is masterful in a lot of ways, but especially so when it comes to the wonders of The Pig! This pork belly (its texture approached that of a firm foie gras) was so succulent, and served with little neck clams, pickled ramp aioli, and chives. It was artfully displayed on the plate, and the chefs showed restraint in letting the pork belly shine as the star, because the other flavors that complimented it could have been a distraction otherwise. A small smear of aioli here, a dusting of crunchy chives there. It all came together in spades...

Main: Almost everyone else at the table ordered the Pork Loin, but I went with the Wood Grilled Painted Hills Ribeye (my decision colored by the fact that I had the pork belly prior). Of course, pork was never too far away, as the fingerling potatoes were roasted in pork fat (a man after my own heart, this Gillespie!). The steak was perfectly cooked, and I got the distinct impression that the percentage of fat on the cut of steak was left there on purpose. It was served with a roasted pepper chimichurri, but, believe it or not, the most memorable thing on the plate was also the simplest: a solitary charred heirloom tomato that practically melted when I pierced it with my fork and knife. The epitome of this place's culinary value system. It was all unanimously delicious -- including the Butterbean and Carolina Gold Rice Risotto that was at our table, as well...

Still swooning over our meals, everyone ordered dessert, and it was a delicious ending to our meal. I thoroughly enjoyed my Mint Ice Cream Sandwich, with it's chocolate cookie enclosing the ice cream, and chocolate meringue on top, along with a helping of homemade strawberry jam as an extra note. In keeping with the rest of the food served, there were layers of flavor and texture that kept everything in balance...

As a closing aside, I ran into Executive Sous Chef EJ Hodgkinson on our way out. I thanked him for putting out such terrific food, and, as he casually mentioned, he started here right when former chef Michael Tuohy was lighting out for Sacramento to return to his NoCal roots. This is the same Michael Tuohy who's Grange Restaurant I thoroughly enjoyed a couple of weeks back in Sacramento (and blogged about on 6/23)! Turns out Hodgkinson is blazing a similar path as Tuohy, coming to Atlanta to establish and solidify his reputation and skills, and then... who knows...? Best of luck to EJ; I will definitely keep an eye out for him and the most assuredly good things to come...

That said, my recent restaurant raves have come full circle!!

Woodfire is a place I will not soon forget, and plan on returning to as often as I can. It surpassed any expectations I could have had, and is a shining example of the ambitious, yet simple style a restaurant and it's chefs can succeed with by sticking to the basics and infusing their personal creativity and style...